I haven’t provided an update on my camera situation on the blog so thought a quick post about a recent photo I took was in order!
Until last year I was a Nikon user through and through, I borrowed some of my Dad’s lenses but he changed over to Olympus, last year I took the plunge and also! I took a gamble and purchased a second hand camera from a shop in Watford called SRS Microsystems.
They had a second hadn't camera for sale on eBay and was lucky enough to buy the from them! A quick comment about those guys, they are fantastic! They have been around since 1981 and are a truly independent company but have helped with a number of issues with the second hand camera I have purchased, which to them and Olympus credit, have repaired and sorted free of charge!
If you are looking for a mirrorless camera setup instead of a full frame I highly recommend the micro four thirds OMDs! The big draw for me is the portability of the micro four thirds set up, the lenses are smaller and a lot lighter and as most of my photos end up on social media or this blog I don’t really have a big need for full frame!
Any way to try and bring this post back on track, as I have asked a question in the post title, so is this Olympus camera setting cheating?
Technically I don’t think so! I am not cheating I am just using the camera to its full potential! Early this year the teenager, who has opted to do photography for her GCSE’s we had to get some light trail shots for her portfolio!
We decided to head out just after sunset to try to a little bridge over our nearest motorway, the annoying (as I call it!) M11.
This was the first time either of us had tried light trails since changing from Nikon to Olympus and I was amazed at a little tool that Olympus has that helps with this.
The Olympus OMD e-m5 mkii luckily for us, comes with a great feature called Live Composite.
Live Composite mode is a really easy way to take light trails or to do light painting! When I select this mode it turns the camera in to long expose but is made up of several shorter exposures which are then merged in camera. You have to setup the first exposure shot to get the exposure etc right and then each of the following shots are of the same duration. Only new shorts in the scene that are brighter than your initial photo will be added. The big bonus for this is that you can view the shot on the back LCD screen.
These were the outcome, which I am pretty happy with! Simple yet effective photos and looking forward to getting out and trying this in a city!